More than 8,000 of the world’s ultra-elite flocked to the Bahamas in the spring of 2017 for Fyre Festival, which promised world-class headliners, luxury accommodation and five star cuisine – all the tune of up to £75,000 a ticket.
But we all know what happened next. When the masses arrived on Great Exuma – one of the so-called Out Islands of the Bahamas – they were greeted with a ‘post-apocalyptical nightmare’: a sea of white tents, stacks of wet mattresses, and no electricity or running water.
Sharing their frustrations on Twitter, the world watched a play-by-play of Fyre Festival as it burned.
The now iconic cheese sandwich was posted, with the hashtag ‘dumpsterfyre’ and the rest, as they say, is history.
But seven years on from the iconic flop, and tourists haven’t been deterred from visiting Great Exuma, where Fyre Festival was held.
While the majority of tourists flock to the Bahamian capital of Nassau, on New Providence, Great Exuma is quieter, but still has those white sandy beaches, delicious street food and laid-back island vibes.
With it’s turquoise seas glistening in the distance, according to astronauts when viewed from space, Great Exuma is the most beautiful place on Earth. And I can attest to the fact that, once you’re taking it all in on solid ground (or should that be, white sandy beach?) it’s pretty stunning too.
I arrived in Great Exuma via the country’s main international airport in Nassau, followed by a 30 minute flight to the largest of the 365 Exuma islands.
Sandals Emerald Bay would be my home. I’ll admit, I expected a soulless high-rise but, to my surprise, it was actually a villa-style property sitting on a lush 500 tropical acres, close to the beach. Oh and it’s so expansive, that despite being fully occupied it felt secluded. Bliss.
I was ready to soak in all it had to offer, but that would have to wait as it was was already time to hit the road.
I was to get an authentic taste of Exuma with the People-to-People program, run by the Bahamas Ministry of Tourism, which connects visitors to locals for a ‘non-touristy’ experience. You can just sign up to join in all the fun.
I arrived at the home of locals Katharina and Victor and was instantly hit by the mouth-watering aroma of an authentic Bahamian meal being prepared – which would soon become my new obsession, conch fritters. Conch, a culinary delicacy, is a common name of a number of different medium-to-large-sized shellfish.
After checking out the meal prep, I was taken to where I’d be dining, the home’s back garden. But with its panoramic view of the ocean, it wasn’t your average backyard!
It wasn’t long before I felt like one of the family as the cook’s youngest children excitedly grabbed my hands to show me around the property as neighbours popped by to extend a welcome and sharing the stories.
What followed was an evening of lively conversation and laughter while tucking into seafood and rice and peas. And as the sun set on the gathering, even the uninvited guests – the mosquitos – seemed sad to see me go.
After a much-needed sleep in my room at Sandals, in the super comfortable fit for a Queen-size bed, the next morning I was on a boat chartered by Exuma Water Sports for their must-do, four-hour, Seven Beaches & Moriah Marine Park tour. The great thing about Sandals is that there are a range of both on and off resort activities on offer.
During the tour, you explore caves, coves and seven of the worlds most stunning beaches sipping on copious refreshments. This excursion can be added to your package at Sandals, which costs £150.
Our guide, Justin, made sure I glimpsed every one of the exotic sea life creatures flitting around the crystal-clear water as we passed by an unreal secluded beach. ‘We hosted a private party for Taylor Swift there,’ he then casually said as we passed the spot in Moriah Bay. As you do!
Next, it was time to alight at a breathtaking sandbar — a permanent fixture in the midst of the ocean. I stepped on to it and immediately felt almost invincible, as though I was ‘walking on water’. To stand in the middle of the sea with a strip of pristine white sand extending before me to as far as the eye can see, was nothing short of overwhelming.
A brief journey then led to another of The Bahamas’ many small nameless islands where after a little stroll, a ‘secret’ beach appeared.
After I jumped into the sea, and floated and glided through the narrow caves, it was a back on the boat for a speedy sail to local favourite, Chat ‘N’ Chill bar on Stocking Island, accessible only by boat.
There, I tucked into delicious mahi-mahi fish with rice and salad for £15, while sipping on a rum punch (The Bahamas is after all, the home of rum). Heaven.
Then more heaven back at Emerald Bay, where I ate yet again, but this time some tasty Asian-fusion cuisine in one of its 11 restaurants.
If you want culture, Great Exuma has that too. Another Sandals excursion was the Historical Sightseeing Tour, during which we explored the Pompey Memorial and Steventon Jail Ruins.
Pompey is a national hero in the Bahamas. Once a slave for Lord John Rolle, a British landowner living in Barbado, in 1830, Pompey, then 32, led a rebellion against his slave master along with 43 slaves from Lord Rolle’s plantation in Exuma.
When caught, Pompey was given several lashes – but his actions managed to stop the transfer order of 77 slaves, which would have led to their separation from their families, including children.
His act was a precursor to emancipation in The Bahamas, which happened in August 1838. Now, a memorial statue stands in front of the dilapidated jail where many slaves were sent for disobedience.
After the tour hosted by our knowledgeable guide, historian Kenneth Nixon, I popped over to Uncle El’s Conch Shack, a little stand in front of the old jail ruins, with the ever-present ocean in the backdrop.
It’s run by a local food legend, Uncle El, who is quite the character – not shy about telling you why he’s the best conch salad maker on the island. After tucking into his fresh, appetising treat, which cost just £3, I think his claim would be hard to dispute.
Back at Sandals, I indulged in all the resort has to offer: I had to go for a quick dive with their amazing diving team, have at least 100 more of their tropical fruit punches at their sprawling, never busy bar, and tuck into chicken at their jerk shack.
Now while my meal was lovely, it didn’t quite pack that jerk chicken punch that you’d get in places like Jamaica – so do tuck in, but be warned!
Belly full and bags packed. It was bye, bye paradise and hello, Nassau! After all, I couldn’t not visit the capital city of The Bahamas.
I was bracing myself for Nassau to be the total opposite of Exuma. Bahamas has a population of 415, 000 and Nassau has 70% of them, plus It’s beloved by American tourists, given it’s proximity to Florida.
But despite the foot traffic there, I was pleasantly surprised to find that the place is filled with pockets of serenity at every turn.
It’s where the country’s colonial past is most on display, with buildings from that era still meticulously maintained and turned into, offices and museums, including The Pompey Museum, named after Pompey, the heroic slave from Exuma.
The museum, which is only £2 to enter, is within the historic Vendue House, which was constructed before 1769 and was a marketplace until the late 1800s, where enslaved Africans were traded during the 18th and 19th centuries.
Amidst colonial buildings there are coffee shops, restaurants, and designer boutiques.
Next, I went on a one and a half hour historic walking tour, which included the grand mansion once occupied by the abdicated King Edward VIII when he was Governor of The Bahamas in the Second World War. Nassau’s centre was pristine, by the way, with not even a stray cigarette butt insight.
I also put a postcard in the famous and still-functioning post box in Parliament Street, which bears the initials of Queen Elizabeth II – its style was one of the first used in Britain in 1852. It’s believed to be the the only pillar box of it’s kind in the Caribbean. (Two weeks later and that post card, which I forgot about, rocked up at my London flat!)
Next, I headed to private Salt Cay (Blue Lagoon Island) by boat to take in thestunning scenery, a gorgeous lagoon and yet more of those white sand beaches.
I relaxed my tour-weary legs at the beach before enjoying a local picnic of a delicious fish meal, washed down with the obligatory rum punch. The five-hour experience with Dolphin Encounters (again, available via Sandals) is pricey at £95, but is worth every penny.
I made my way back to the my Nassau Sandals Royal Bahamian resort in its new villa-style section, where some suites come with their own plunge pool.
There’s also access by boat to their own private island. The beach club and restaurant here is a must visit, if only for the open-air beach spa, Red Lane Spa.
My incredible massage would prove to be just the prep I needed for what was set to be one the best and heady nights I’ve ever had.
Because in a sea of yellow, blue and black – the colours of the country’s flag – Nassau transformed in the early hours from a relatively quiet city centre into the capital of revelry.
Starting at 2am, steel pans, marching bands, drums, and boom boxes greeted my ears with catchy, booming music as seemingly the whole town gathered to celebrate Junkanoo, to mark 50 years of the country’s independence.
Named after the West African John Canoe Festival, Junkanoo originated in the Bahamas around the 17th century as a masquerade. Slaves with their faces hidden under a mask of flour paste, celebrated on Boxing Day and the day after Christmas. Then, the flour masks were replaced by the more recognisable wire masks held on a stick. Today, Junkanoo is a bi-annual party celebrating the Bahamian culture.
From the seemingly perennial groups of dancers parading down the streets in colourful costumes followed by musicians, there was non-stop cheering on by the crowds of locals and visitors alike.
A vibrant and surreal scene, this parade suddenly saw my ageing hips gyrating, arms flaying and head wildly bopping at the street party.
This annual event, which could rival the spectacle of the Rio Carnival, was the fitting end to my time on the island. The Bahamas: it’s no Fyre Festival.
Getting there:
- British Airways flies from Heathrow to Nassau, The Bahamas, from £711 return.
- Three-nights at Sandals Emerald Bay, Great Exuma in a Beach House Grande Luxe Walkout Club Level Room followed by four-nights at Sandals Royal Bahamian, Nassau in an East Bay Zen Garden Room costs from £2,789 per person. Price includes a total of seven-nights all-inclusive accommodation, Club Sandals Concierge Service at Sandals Emerald Bay, return economy class flights with British Airways, inter-island flights with Bahamasair and in-resort airport transfers. Price also includes an extra £200 off per booking with Sandals Annual Sale. Quote promo code ‘SALE’ by 14 May 2024. Price is valid for travel on select dates in September 2024 and is subject to availability/change. Visit the Sandals website for more information.
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