I know what you’re thinking; isn’t it a touch soon to be talking about autumn/winter 2024 fashion trends? To those of us who see fashion for all that it is and all that it can be—a form of expression, a facet of your personality, and, in my own experience, one of the reasons I get out of bed in the morning—it never feels too soon. And I can say with certainty that designers have given us a lot to look forward to next season. That doesn’t mean, however, that I don’t find writing this—what has become the most important story I pen each year—hard. Because I do. No less because of the blank page I’m presented with at the beginning of the process—by the time I close my laptop, I’ll have written around 5,000 words distilling the most noteworthy trends that stand out from the 8,000 autumn/winter 2024 looks—but because of the impact it could have when out in the world. And the world right now is a very difficult place to be.
As with anyone with the privilege of having an online voice, regardless of the subject matter to which you speak, it feels remiss of me not to first acknowledge the conflict around us. Wars are raging, and some of the most crucial governmental elections of our time lie ahead. I admit that writing about what I do sometimes feels frivolous in comparison to the daily headlines I read on the BBC. Still, along with hopes for peace, I hope this feature affords you some gentle relief for a moment—the same relief I was afforded in writing it.
(Image credit: Louis Vuitton / Getty Images)
You could say we’ve had to do a lot of growing up lately, and the wider autumn/winter 2024 fashion trends are a reflection of that. While it would be a disservice to say that Y2K style is no longer relevant—you need only glance at your FYP on TikTok to know it is still very much a thing—I am comfortable declaring that it no longer reigns the biggest aesthetic in fashion. Over the past few months, we’ve seen a shift towards elegant and sophisticated dressing, a notion that countless designers underlined for autumn/winter 2024. Well-cut skirt suits, tailored coats, smart handbags, sharp shoes, and chic shift dresses come together to create a wardrobe that’s made for women, not little girls.
Sharing this sentiment were the season’s casting directors. According to fashion data platform Tagwalk, 70% of the top 20 brands this season (the rankings of which are determined by a number of factors, including social engagement and Google searches surrounding said brands) included older models in their shows. In the interest of being transparent, this means models aged 30 and over, but during the course of my own runway research, I have to say, older models were more apparent than I’ve ever seen them be before.
Ageing well is a theme designers have been relentlessly exploring for the past few seasons. I—a person who loves fashion but is reluctant to part with her cash—will always advocate for a slow trend cycle. As a writer, however, I was beginning to worry about what I’d even write about for autumn/winter 2024. So help me if I have to think up a new way to spin the term “quiet luxury”! This also served as the central theme for a recent conversation I had with some colleagues over dinner: Has fashion become too “real”? Is unique style a thing of the past?
(Image credit: Chanel / Getty Images)
As someone who will always prefer neutrals to noisy prints, I enjoy the level of stylish anonymity that comes with such pieces. Still, as an observer, there’s nothing I love more than when someone walks into a room with the confidence to wear something bold and brimming with character. For autumn/winter 2024, many designers are encouraging us to dress with personality again, be it in the form of colour, fabric, form, or a combination of the three. New styling suggestions, talking-point motifs and statement silhouettes are all here to play with this season. From the subtle to the standout, whichever end of the style spectrum your wardrobe leans towards, designers invite you to embrace it completely and unashamedly for autumn/winter 2024. Liberating? You could say that, though liberation is apparently easier to attain when you’re a size 6.
According to Vogue Business, there has been “an incremental decrease in total size inclusivity across New York, London, Milan and Paris”. Of the 8,800 looks presented across 230 shows and presentations for autumn/winter 2024, 0.8% were plus-size (UK 16+), 3.7% were mid-size (UK 10-14), and 95.5% were straight-size (UK 4-8). Further findings by Vogue Business suggest that new appointments have equated to old casting habits. As stated by the publication, autumn/winter 2024 was “punctuated with a series of designer debuts at major houses. Many of the new appointments were men, which appeared to affect size inclusivity results.” One only needs to think of designers such as Phoebe Philo, Jil Sander and Gabriela Hearst and how their approach to fashion offers both substance and intellect, designed with the modern wearer—the modern woman—in mind. How this compares to clothes designed for women through the male gaze is up for debate.
Is there another reason brands struggled to dress plus-size bodies for autumn/winter 2024? Perhaps it’s the prospect of actually having to dress women as opposed to draping them in skimpy strips of fabric and parading them down the runway in the attempt to say, “Hey, look at us; we’re not scared to show plus-size skin. We’re inclusive!”. I’m not buying it. Spring/summer runway looks typically tend to be less “wearable”; there’s a sort of “it’s hot—you don’t need to wear a lot” mentality to many of the designs, and some use this as a way to appear inclusive. But really, it’s periodical tokenism. In the colder months, when they should craft clothes that genuinely work for the season and fit all kinds of bodies, brands quickly deprioritise inclusivity. Needless to say, there’s still a lot of work to be done here. For now, I can guide you to the brands that were body-positivity allies this season—Sinéad O’Dwyer—the most size-inclusive brand of all that showed this season—, Edeline Lee, Cecilie Bahnsen, Bach Mai, Ester Manas, Collina Strada and Di Petsa.
(Image credit: Chloé / Getty Images)
When all is said and done, there is still something very joyful about the collections for autumn/winter. In terms of colour, this might be one of the brightest autumn/winter seasons on record (even if the overarching hue was, admittedly, an earthy one). A focus on fun fabrics was key, with designers such as Erdem and David Koma taking the plume approach with froths of feathers—even on shoes! Leather is glossier than ever, checks have gone jumbo, and hemlines are puffed to perfection. Indeed, there’s beauty to be found wherever you look for autumn, though I recommend starting here.
Keep reading for our comprehensive rundown of the most noteworthy autumn/winter 2024 fashion trends featuring expert insights, including acute observations from Who What Wear UK’s esteemed editors.
THE BIGGEST AUTUMN/WINTER 2024 FASHION TRENDS
1. DRESS LIKE A DEBUTANT
(Image credit: Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini, Miu Miu, Genny, Simone Rocha, Erdem, Prada; all via Launchmetrics Spotlight / Courtesy of Celine)
Glamour and elegance aren’t always mutually exclusive and, this season, one of the biggest shifts we’re seeing is a return to refined dressing. Things felt especially prim and proper at Erdem, a brand who has long championed sophistication over shock value. Duchess satin dresses and tweed twinsets populated its collection while, over at Simone Rocha, faux furs came pre-adorned with heirloom-looking brooch embellishments. Thus creating a stunning capsule that would befit a 1950s, New York heiress.
“Give me a vintage silhouette and a pair of black shades good enough for Jackie Kennedy herself, and I will come running,” affirms senior fashion and beauty editor, branded content, Rebecca Rhys-Evans. “‘Debutant dressing’, as my colleague has so cutely coined it, is the reemergence of some of the most-used styles of the 1950’s and ‘60s. Think shift dresses, faux fur shawls and wool swing coats, which make a stark change to the sporty and streetwear aesthetics and Y2K trends we’ve become accustomed to at Fashion Month in recent years.
“There is perhaps no one to thank more for this than Miuccia Prada herself, who not only recently introduced this era to Prada’s collections, but has long advocated for this style sensibility at Miu Miu—let’s not forget that along with the ultra short mini skirts the brand’s ‘frazzled English woman’ also had cashmere cardigans, pearls and below-the-knee skirts, too. What’s evident amongst many of the catwalks this season, is that it’s as much down to accessories as it is ready-to-wear. Over-the-elbow gloves and brooches at Erdem, Lady bags at Genny and Celine and pearl necklaces, well, everywhere, it seems many of us have been watching Mad Men and Feud: Truman Capote vs. The Swans.”
SHOP THE TREND
Mango
Pocket Tweed Jacket
DÔEN
Silk-Satin Midi Dress
HUISHAN ZHANG
Alida Tweed Midi Skirt
2. SWATHES OF FABRIC
(Image credit: Erdem, Chloé, Paco Rabanne, Bottega Veneta, Del Core, Tibi, Brandon Maxwell; all via Launchmetrics Spotlight)
Between the headlines and what seems to be a perpetual state of time slipping through our fingers, designers have anticipated that, by the time autumn hits, we’ll be in need of some comfort. Cue clothes that, quite literally, swaddled models on the runway. While this cold-feeling editor is certainly pleased about this, the trend goes beyond keeping one cosy. In fact, it might just be the most luxurious of the season, as Who What Wear’s Editor-in-Chief, Hannah Almassi, observes.
“What separates mass market fashion from luxury fashion? Fabric! Cut and finish are, of course, of the utmost importance too, but affordable brands simply cannot compete when it comes to fabric both in terms of the quality of the bolt, but also the volume designer houses are able to use thanks to their higher price points. So what could be more luxurious than swathes of fabric? There is something dramatic and fabulous about the swoop of a gigantic scarf or cape across one’s body, and with the A/W 24 runways referencing multiple bygones eras (the ’50s, ’70s, ’80s and ’90s were all present) this is a styling trick that brings some old-school glamour without being tied to a specific aesthetic or era. Chic and warm? Sign me up.”
SHOP THE TREND
TOTEME
+ Net Sustain Draped Fringed Wool-Blend Jacket
H&M
Cashmere-Blend Poncho
3. BURGUNDY BAGS
(Image credit: Ermanno Scervino, Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini, Roberto Cavalli, Bottega Veneta, Gucci, Ferragamo; all via Launchmetrics Spotlight)
When the “quiet luxury” aesthetic first came to the fore, much of the collections that followed were devoid of colour. Instead, designers collectively embarked on a thorough exploration of all-things neutral which I might have personally enjoyed (personally I’ve never really gravitated towards bright hues). Still, as a fashion editor, it did make my writings feel a little stale. Although not bright by any stretch of the imagination, I was pleased to see some semblance of colour seep back onto the runway this season, and one of the most prevalent ways it did so was by way of burgundy bags.
Rich in tone and in style pay-off, there’s something that looks so expensive about burgundy bags. Of course, the styles in the designer collections naturally are, but even those on the affordable end of the market still boast an air of polish. Confirming we’re going to see a lot of this bag trend in the coming months is Net-a-Porter’s market director, Libby Page.
“Burgundy bags garnered focus at Gucci, Bottega Veneta, and Ferragamo and are a great way to add colour to a carefully curated capsule wardrobe; I have my eye on Savette’s The Tondo Crescent leather shoulder bag.” Great, now I do, too.
SHOP THE TREND
Bottega Veneta
Large Andiamo Bag
LOEWE
Squeeze Leather Tote
& Other Stories
Folded Patent-Leather Clutch
4. CARDIGAN CLUB
(Image credit: Molly Goddard, Stella McCartney, Miu Miu, Gucci, No.21, Chanel, Ferragamo; all via Launchmetrics Spotlight)
This season, designers came together to write love letters to some of the most unassuming and often overlooked garments in our wardrobe. While we’re explore more of those later, I’d like to take a moment to reflect on the style journey the humble cardigan has taken. Once considered an integral part of the grandparent uniform (I swear, my Scottish granny must have had 30+ cardigans of different colours, weaves, and thickness), the piece has since been adopted by stylish types across the world. Alexa Chung wears hers with miniskirts, while French women style theirs with flare jeans and sans tops underneath. Now, the autumn/winter 2024 runways are a testament to its impressive transition.
“Cardigans are entering the mainstream, picked up by designers and cool-girls alike,” observes social media editor Megan Storey. “Whether it’s a classic bouclé number at Chanel or structured silhouettes at Stella McCartney each designer is giving their own twist to the librarian-esque knit. I love the practicality of this trend: the warmth of a jumper coupled with the functionality of a jacket? I’m sold.”
SHOP THE TREND
SEA
Wool Jacquard Cardigan
& Other Stories
Knitted Cardigan
5. BARREL SILHOUETTES
(Image credit: Dries Van Noten, Balmain, Bevza, Eudon Choi, Emporio Armani, Calcaterra, Bottega Veneta, all via Launchmetrics Spotlight)
Trousers have dominated the chicest looks, the runways and the wider trend agenda for the past few years now—so much so, it’s made even I, someone who exclusively wore dresses for the past 10 years—change her ways. And just when we thought every trouser style had already been presented at the fashion alter for consideration, another once-forgotten silhouette has proven itself worthy of the runway treatment.
“Love it or hate it, barrel-leg silhouettes have been climbing everyone’s wishlists ever since barrel-leg jeans were introduced in Alaïa’s A/W23 collection,” confirms Lyst‘s content editor, Morgane Speed. “With its unusual shape that curves out at the hip and tapers in at the ankle, the barrel-leg may seem a bit intimidating, but styling it simply involves accentuating its sculptural shape while minimising distractions.” Further to Speed’s point, Lyst data shows that searches for barrel-leg jeans and trousers increased by 52% from Q4 2023 to Q1 2024, precisely when the autumn/winter 2024 runway shows fell. Needless to say, the market is responding to that want.
“At Net-a-Porter, we’ve seen a shift towards more oversized and wide-leg silhouettes. Street style has embraced baggy, low-slung styles and added a more androgynous touch to our wardrobes,” affirms Page. “The architectural shape of Citizens of Humanity Horseshoe frayed high-rise wide-leg jeans elevates any smart-casual dress code.”
SHOP THE TREND
BRUNELLO CUCINELLI
Twill Tapered Pants
TOTEME
Pleated Tapered Pants
6. KHAKI COMBACK
(Image credit: Ferragamo, Schiaparelli, Ulla Johnson, Eudon Choi, Burberry, Saint Laurent, Gucci; all via Launchmetrics Spotlight)
For autumn/winter 2024, we’re going to see a lot of monotone dressing: Wearing one colour top-to-toe. This has long been a discipline used by celebrity stylists to make their clients’ outfits feel more pulled together and cohesive—something we saw reflected in the runway looks that applied the same logic. However, it was only when I started to review the imagery I’d sourced for this trend report that it struck me just how many looks were khaki.
“Tonal dressing, as seen at Bottega Veneta and Ferragamo, appears as a standout trend for A/W 24 with hues of khaki, rust, and brown taking centre stage,” observes Page. While I will list the key colour trends for autumn/winter 2024 soon, suffice it to say that earthy green is the most prevalent of them all.
“Every season I keep my eyes peeled for the next big colour trend. I’m a minimalist at heart—90% of my wardrobe is black, with just a splattering of white dresses for summer—but that doesn’t mean I’m not deeply invested in the hue that everyone is going to be talking about and wearing over the coming months,” says managing editor, Poppy Nash. “For spring/summer, we saw baby blue take the helm, but for autumn/winter, it’s a deep khaki that is taking over. Modern but still timeless and sophisticated, I love how the rich green shade can add a classy and expensive-looking tone to an otherwise simple look. On the runway, we saw the colour dominate in the form of tonal dressing; Burberry, Ferragamo and Ulla Johnson showcased full khaki looks, with the outerwear and the accessories—not to mention everything in between—drenched in the olive tone. But if, like me, you just want to dip your toe into the trend, consider investing in a khaki blazer this autumn, or opt for shirts and tees that you can layer under some of your existing autumn/winter staples.”
SHOP THE TREND
Reformation
Rina Low Waisted Skirt
STELLA MCCARTNEY
Woven Blazer
ZARA
Patent Leather Loafers
7. THERE’S SOMETHING ABOUT CHLOÉ
(Image credit: Chloé via Launchmetrics Spotlight)
Sometimes, one collection has the power to spark an entire fashion movement, birthing an entirely new aesthetic without it ever having to feature on another runway. Of this ilk, Gucci springs to mind, when it singlehandedly ushered us into an age of geekcore with its autumn/winter 2015 collection. Now, however, times have moved on; style is sleeker and customers yearn for pieces that will stand the test of time and, perhaps, act as an investment for future fashion resale. And, let me tell you, clothes and accessories from Chloé’s autumn/winter 2024 collection will become swiftly become collector’s items.
While Chloé never went away—in recent years the brand has seen major success with cult items, such as its Woody tote bag and matching sandals—but, for 2024, it’s definitely reclaimed its crown as one of the most-covetable brands on the market. Its new creative director, Chemena Kamali, created a collection that felt fresh without sacrificing Chloé’s unique and beloved DNA, something which we often see when the urge to make one’s mark outweighs that of building upon a brand’s heritage. “When I was at a fancy dinner in Paris just a few nights after the Chloé show, every French journalist I spoke with was still buzzing from the joy of the debut show from Chemena Kamali—no one had a bad word to say about it, and the almost-instant spike in Google searches for “boho fashion” means we aren’t one in our adoration,” says Almassi. “I can say first-hand that it speaks to a Millennial group of editors, influencers and stylists who grew up admiring the various boho iterations of the storied French fashion house, aspiring to one day own a wardrobe that felt that free, that romantic and that indulgent. In an age of capsule wardrobes and pared-back luxury, it’s good to remember that personal style should be just that—personal—and if you’re natural fashion leaning is towards the ’70s (as it is for me) this is an aesthetic that never really dies. Dressing in an artsy, laid-back way is just as riche and valuable as the more sombre “quiet luxury” looks that have pervaded in high fashion over the past few years.”
Sharing this sentiment is Speed, who notes, “Few A/W 24 shows were as anticipated as Chloé’s, and Chemena Kamali’s debut as the brand’s new creative director was a blend of heritage and innovation that immediately resurrected the boho-chic It-girl aesthetic from the aughts. So much so, searches for Chloé increased 35% in the 48 hours following the brand’s A/W24 show in Paris this March.”
“With an inclination towards intricate details and tailoring, Chemena Kamali’s debut at Chloé signalled a new era of boho, that combines our love of the extraordinary everyday with the nostalgia of the early Noughties,” attests Page. “We expect sheer dresses, lace hosiery, fringe, romantic ruffles, and oversized sunglasses to take centre-stage in our summer wardrobes. Kamali provided a masterclass in balancing romantic, practical, and playful styles, which is everything we want for our summer wardrobes.” One thing’s for sure—I’m mighty glad I still have my Chloé Drew bag.
SHOP THE TREND
CHLOÉ
Embellished Leather Jacket
CHLOÉ
Broderie Anglaise Skirt
8. CHECK, PLEASE
(Image credit: Helmut Lang, Dries Van Noten, Chloé, Christian Dior, Balmain, Iceberg, Loewe; all via Launchmetrics Spotlight)
While there’s an excitement in unearthing a new trend you know is going to change the face of fashion for a season, as I get older, I’ve come to appreciate the sound reliability of others. I would assume that checks have featured on every trend report that has ever been published on Who What Wear. However, for autumn/winter 2024, they’re significantly punchier than their predecessors. Heritage weaves are still very much a thing—but in bold colour mixes and enlarged motifs. At Balmain, black and white grid checks stole the show, while one of my favourite looks of the season is the green and mustard checked cape coat at Chloé.
“I think we can all probably agree that if spring is the season for florals, then autumn is the season for checks,” says Nash. “And this year’s collections prove no different. There’s a distinct air of elegance to this timeless trend, with plenty of designers showcasing the print in the form of maxi wool outerwear, wrap skirts and classic crew-neck sweaters. Bring it into 2024 by clashing it with other prints and mixing textures, or try a full-on chequered look à la Helmut Lang.”
SHOP THE TREND
Polo Ralph Lauren
Plaid Turtleneck Sweater
SUZIE KONDI
Elira Checked Cotton-Gauze Wide-Leg Pants
9. TO THE POINT
(Image credit: Michael Kors, Prada, Isabel Marant, Givenchy, Jason Wu, Carolina Herrera. Stella McCartney; all via Launchmetrics Spotlight)
It was easy to forget about the heeled pump for as long as we did. While it has and always be considered a footwear classic, the pointed-toe court shoe has often been left in the dust by bigger and flashier shoe moments, only to be summoned every once in a while to wear to an interview or to match a tricky occasion dress. But overlook it at your peril for it was the most popular shoe on the autumn/winter 2024 by a mile.
“For autumn/winter 2024, it’s all about sleek pumps in vintage-inspired silhouettes, as seen at Valentino Garavani and Dolce & Gabbana,” confirms Page. “Versace’s Embellished mirrored-leather mules make the perfect addition to a day-to-night wardrobe, and can be styled with denim in the day, or an exquisite dress such as Salon 1884’s Linea strapless silk gown for a special occasion.”
“Whether they’re poking out of a pair of jeans, or paired with an ankle sock, pointed-toe shoes feel like the most-wearable (and ladylike) shoe of the moment,” says Storey. “No doubt there’ll be a plethora of point-toe heels at weddings this summer. However if, like me, you’re still stuck on the ballet flat train, look to Isabel Marant and Prada for the ultimate smart-casual point-toe pump.”
SHOP THE TREND
& Other Stories
Braided Leather Pumps
10. POWER PUFF GIRLS
(Image credit: Marques’Almeida, Molly Goddard, Conner Ives, Cecilie Bahnsen, Alaïa, Valentino, Loewe; all via Launchmetrics Spotlight)
Since embarking on the days of research that go into creating this trend report, it’s with hindsight that I see the ’80s undercurrent rippling through the A/W 24 collections. Between the edgy biker sets and Working Girl business attire, there were countless throwback references, but the most standout and noteworthy was absolutely the combined revival of the puffball and peplum. Found in skirt and dress form, puffed-out hemlines dominated the runways of Molly Goddard and Loewe, whilst Marques’ Almeida, whose triumphant LFW return was a firm a highlight from the month, turned the volume up a notch on the top half of the body with its array of dresses and tops that burst from the waistline.
“We’ve seen volumised trends take on many forms over the last few seasons; bags have gotten bigger, silhouettes wider, and accessories have become larger than life on the runways,” observes assistant social media editor, Annie Wheatland-Clinch. “Still, in what might be the most exciting advancement of the trend yet, puff detailing has made a return with designers voluminous features to compliment captivating textures and bright colours. From sleeves to skirt hems, this fresh take on what we might consider an Eighties archetype has already made a big impact, we’ve seen the high-street introduce puff sleeves across every category while the fashion set continue to embrace this ‘bigger is better’ attitude and playful point of view on textures. Marry these together and you have a perfectly puffed trend, with all the gloss and gorgeousness of a sweet cherry pie.”
“Puffball hemlines are seeing a resurgence and have been worn by the likes of Lila Moss and Julia Fox, owing to their playful and flattering silhouette. This summer I’ll be sporting Chloé’s mini dress as an elevated nod to the trend,” says Page.
SHOP THE TREND
MOLLY GODDARD
Tulle Maxi Skirt
Reformation
Babette Dress
& Other Stories
Ruffle-Sleeve Blouse
11. LIQUID LEATHER
(Image credit: Gucci, Gabriela Hearst, Chloé, Bally, Tod’s, Ferragamo, Valentino; all via Launchmetrics Spotlight)
When it comes to materials to take note of note for autumn/winter 2024, there’s one that stands out from the rest: Leather. Granted, it might not be the most surprising trend you’ll find on this list but it is one of the most everlasting, which is exactly what you want from something that’s considered a premium material and, therefore, comes with a higher price tag. From shirts and skirts to dresses and trousers to jackets and coats, leather dominated across all four fashion capitals. Most looks featured a glossy finish, be it vinyl or simply leather so supple it caught the light. There was also a focus on colour, too—while black leather will never be “out”, it seems that blues, browns and greens are very much “in”.
“We saw a lot more of leather this season compared to the previous, and it had a moment this season with the styling,” confirms Page. If that’s not enough to convince you, perhaps the numbers will. Lyst reports that post–fashion month searches for leather clothing spiked by 25%—an early indicator of the prevalence it’ll have on our wardrobes next season.
SHOP THE TREND
Whistles
Patent Leather Skirt
JAKKE
Patent Faux Leather Coat
Charles & Keith
Lula Patent Bag
12. ROLL WITH IT
(Image credit: Michael Kors, Christian Dior, No.21, Jil Sander, Bottega Veneta, Victoria Beckham, Alaïa; all via Launchmetrics Spotlight)
Along with the cardigan, we saw designers give the quiet yet ever-reliable roll-neck knit its dues on the autumn/winter runways. Often used as an acoutriment to bolder top layers, for 2024 the roll-neck knit holds its own with striking colours, chunkier necklines and interesting details such as zips. With the ability to make any outfit feel classier, trust me—this unassuming item is going to have a major impact on the way we dress this year.
“This season always calls for tactical layering, and there’s no item better up to the job than the humble roll neck knit,” says news writer, Natalie Munro. “In a tall cut that skims the chin, the turtleneck design works to elongate the neck—playing with proportions and adding a healthy dose of drama and elegance to an outfit. Rife across the autumn/winter runways, the elegant layer is set to form the foundation of the best outfits.”
SHOP THE TREND
& Other Stories
Mock-Neck Sweater
THE ROW
Cashmere Turtleneck Sweater
M&S Collection
Merino Wool Jumper
13. JOIN THE FLOCK
(Image credit: Louis Vuitton, Erdem, Elie Saab, No.21, Christian Siriano, David Koma, Annie’s Ibiza; all via Launchmetrics Spotlight)
Throughout the course of the season, our editors have taken note of one dominant theme: The use of ultra-tactile fabrics. The usual suspects come in the form of faux fur and sumptuous wool but, leading the charge is something even more fabulous. Across all four cities, feathers were everywhere you looked, and I don’t just mean in terms of designers, but where they were placed on the body. Feathered shoes were surprisingly popular, cropping up at Erdem and David Koma, while trimmings on minidresses and tops also prevailed.
“If there’s one thing we can expect from the runways its a little drama. Sometimes this comes in magnificient oversized shapes, other times its bold shades, but this season its all about feathers, “says acting affiliate editor, Florrie Alexander. “Adorning sleeves at Christian Siriano, dappled on hems at David Koma, and covering entire gowns at Louis Vuitton, the fluid flutterings of feathers added a soft edge to catwalks and an enticing movement that was expelled with each step. As we look to autumn/winter, there lies the dressier moments of the year, and by our account, feathering details are sure to be a key accent of the festivities.”
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TALLER MARMO
Del Rio Turtleneck Feather-Trimmed Crepe Maxi Dress
Yves Salomon
Mini Feather Bag
14. BRING ON THE BELTS
(Image credit: Chloé, Tod’s, Balmain, Chanel, Christian Dior, Tibi, Loewe; all via Launchmetrics Spotlight)
Sometimes it’s the smallest details that can make the biggest difference to a look, though small might not be the best way to describe this accessory spotlit in the autumn/winter collections. In fact, the impact they can have is anything but minute.
“Belts are the perfect addition to our everyday capsule wardrobes and can elevate a look to new heights of extraordinary style. In the last six months, Net-a-Porter have seen a 550% increase in searches for the Khaite Benny belt, which is available in a selection of colours and styles,” says Page.
“The AW24 catwalks have spoken, and belts have officially entered the chat,” observes Rhys-Evans. “Admittedly an often overlooked accessory, but this season brings opportunity to get your one-and-only belt some friends. Classic leather styles may be there to cinch in the waist (see Loewe and Dior) or perhaps low-slung on the hip as more of a style suggestion (Tibi and Tod’s)—the placement really is fluid. But the belts that really caught my eye? Those that were metallic. Particularly Chanel and Chloe who elevated some cosy knitted two-pieces by layering a bold gold belt in the centre.”
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GABRIELA HEARST
Lozewce Suede Waist Belt
Arket
Buckle Leather Belt
15. SATIN SPOTLIGHT
(Image credit: Bevza, Giorgio Armani, Eudon Choi, Erdem, Ferragamo, Victoria Beckham, Alberta Ferretti; all via Launchmetrics Spotlight)
Fluid satins shimmered down the runways at Ferragamo, Giorgio Armani and Victoria Beckham, reminding us of all the opportunity to dress up that autumn/winter often brings. Modelled in everything from deep red hues to classic metallic tones, the wathes of fabric appeared in various silhouettes, from almost goddess-like draped dresses to power pyjamas and more. Even understated designs were elevated through the material’s ability to catch the light, transforming simplicity into wonder.
“Ever looking for an excuse to style my favourite material, the autumn/winter’s divine take on satin dressing speaks to my soul,” says Munro. “Transcending the confines of its typical nice-top jacket, this season luxurious satin suits, pyjama sets and, of course,, dresses, speak to a growing preference for sleek styling and lavish living.”
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Whistles
Teigan Metallic Trousers
Reformation
Layla Silk Skirt
& Other Stories
Slim Satin Midi Dress
16. DOUBLE-DOSE DENIM
(Image credit: Christian Dior, Carolina Herrera, Zimmermann, Victoria Beckham, Miu Miu, Schiaparelli; all via Launchmetrics Spotlight)
Denim has always been a fabric designers love to play with, especially in the cooler months, but autumn/winter’s interpretation is bolder and more assertive than any in recent memory. “Fashion has come a long way since Justin Timberlake and Britney Spears’ matching double denim looks at the 2001 American Music Awards, but it seems designers are ready for us to get back in the saddle,” says Speed. “From Diesel and Vetements to Casablanca, 3.1 Phillip Lim, Ralph Lauren and Staud, the Texan tuxedo has been given a modern upgrade, just in time for us all to join Beyoncé in her Cowboy Carter era.”
“Denim is always a nice feature to spot on a runway, as its such an integral part of our daily wardrobes its easy to tap into the new ways to wear,” adds Alexander. “This season? Make ‘more is more’ your mantra. Pairing double, and sometimes even treble, denim pieces in one was proven to be succinctly impactful on the catwalk as it will be on the street. What’s more, designers offered variety in this jean pairing, with combinations running from short sleeve shirts and skirts at Dior, to tailored tops and trousers at Carolina Herrera. Structured iterations of the fabric graced Schiaparelli’s show whilst Gabriela Hearst took a more languid approach with fluid trenchcoats and exaggerated hems.”
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DRIES VAN NOTEN
Denim Maxi Skirt
Arket
Cloud Low Loose Jeans
17. BIG-CAT ENERGY
(Image credit: Alaïa, Dolce & Gabbana, Christian Dior, Zimmermann, Michael Kors, Ester Manas, Versace; all via Launchmetrics Spotlight)
Some trends are harder to spot than others, requiring hours of research to get to the root of and understand its impact on the wider fashion landscape. Leopard print, however, is not one of those trends. For autumn/winter 2024, designers practically screamed “leopard print is back” at the top of their lungs, with the motif cropping up in so many collections, I could have filled this entire report with imagery of them. My favourite imaginings came in coat form—Christian Dior’s belted trench now lives rent-free in my mind—while Zimmermann’s billowing blouse and wide-leg jean look presents a surefire way to stylishly wear the trend next season.
Leopard print’s impact on the season ahead is so monumental, Tagwalk reports that there is 75% more leopard print in the autumn/winter 2024 collections compared to last year’s.
“It’s been a while since we’ve all been able to embrace our inner Kat Slater, but with the likes of Alaïa and Versace giving it their seal of approval, our feline instincts have officially reached their peak,” says Wheatland-Clinch. “We’d already seen the fashion set go wild for leopard print during spring/summer with animal motifs taking over, well, everything, from denim and dresses. But next season, I can’t wait to see how this plays out in more pared-back outerwear shapes and knitted categories. It’s giving noughties Kate Moss, Vintage Roberto Cavalli all mixed together with a little Eastenders—I love it.”
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ZARA
Animal-Print Trench Coat
